babartlett

It feels so good to be walking again. I’m glad we only had minimal elevation gain today. Even though I have done a lot of city walking in Pamplona, Burgos and Leon this past week, that is not the same as walking on the path, and I can tell I have lost a lot of conditioning. But I managed 21 km today. Gave my feet a good rest with shoes and socks off half way through:

When my toes started turning blue (see photo!) I figured it was time to put my socks and shoes back on and keep walking. It was CHILLY and WINDY today. The forecast yesterday said there would 55 mph wind gusts today. I don’t know if it was that strong, but it was very windy. The last four km were tough—walking on a narrow path by the side of a road, straight ahead for 4 km, into gale winds. But we made it. During the last km my feet really wanted to stop, but I am proud of them. They did much better today.

It was a relatively flat, empty walk, so not a whole of photos for today.

There are two paths to choose from about 7 km beyond Leon. The main route is a path by the side of a busy, 4-lane highway all day. No thank you. The alternate route, which we took, follows country roads. The part of the walk on the dirt road was very pleasant. But there was some not-so-pleasant pavement to deal with as well. Still a better choice than breathing exhaust with cars whizzing by all day.

Now to catch up on Burgos. I loved Burgos, as I have loved all three cities I spent time in this week. The cathedral in Burgos is probably beyond my capacity to adequately describe. Visiting it, using the audio guide, looking at all the chapels and individual elements and works of art is similar to spending several hours in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. I probably took hundreds of photos. Which clearly I cannot share here! I will try to edit carefully.

Burgos is beautiful beyond the Cathedral. I love the different colors they paint their houses:

The Cathedral is jaw-dropping both inside and out.

It’s dinner time, and I have added so many photos to this post, I probably need to do a part 2 on Burgos rather than add more photos here. More later!

Goodness. I am in my 8th week of this journey. I think my last day of walking, apart from walking around the cities I’ve been in this week, was last Friday, when I hobbled my way into Pamplona. After a week of rest, I am looking forward to walking again tomorrow. It should be an easy day elevation-wise, but unfortunately, it will be mostly, if not entirely, on pavement. Hoping my new shoes that I’ve been wearing all week serve me well and allow me to finish the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.

It has been an odd experience to stop walking. I’m trying to think of myself as a different kind of pilgrim, but I haven’t really felt like one this past week. I am glad I had the opportunity to spend time in these beautiful, ancient cities: Pamplona, Burgos and Leon, with their centuries-old, sometimes older, architecture and their glorious cathedrals. I will have to come back someday and spend more time in Spain.

First, Pamplona. I shared with you the wonderful nightlife and send-off party we had last Friday. I loved Pamplona—I have loved all three of these northern Spanish cities. Pamplona has a wonderful spirit—relaxed, people out and enjoying themselves. That was probably in part to it being a weekend with beautiful weather, but it was a nice spirit none the less. However I cannot imagine being there during the running of the bulls time.

I’ve been referring to “we” a lot as I write. My Canadian friend and I met about two weeks into the Chemin in France. Then met again a week or so later, and just kept making plans to stay in the same place. We both started having foot problems at the same time and have taken rest days in the same places. We are going to start walking again together tomorrow. It has been nice to have company during these days of not walking. I don’t know if we’ll keep going at the same pace, but I’m grateful for the friendship. That is one of the most precious gifts of the Camino—the people you meet along the way. Some you will never be in touch with again, and some you know you will have as lifelong, if long distance, friends. It reminds me a bit of my acting days. You form such an intense community with your fellow actors during the rehearsal period and the run of the show, then you disband and that close community of folks disperses. There are some you keep in touch with for years, and others who drift out of your life. But we all make an impact and impression on each other, even if our time together is brief.

I’m going to stop and publish this one, and write a separate post about Burgos, and then another about Leon. I hope. I also need to get to sleep tonight since I am planning a 20-21 km walk tomorrow!

Took the train from Burgos to Leon late this afternoon. I know I still need to post about Pamplona and Burgos, and what it is like to not walk for a week. But I will test this hostal’s wifi with a short dispatch from home. My daughter sent me photos from her gorgeous hike in the Adirondacks last Saturday saying, “Mom, my friends said it’s okay to post these on your blog.” How can I pass that up??? So here are some photos of happy college kids on a gorgeous Saturday hike:

And here is Buttercup, happy in his new, bigger crate at his temporary fall home. So grateful for friends taking care of the cats and dog!!

That’s it for now. If I’m not too tired after dinner, I’ll catch up. If not, tomorrow. Or another tomorrow. Will enjoy seeing Leon, and really looking forward to starting to walk again on Friday.

Have not had good wifi the last few days. Even though an albergue or Hostal says they have wifi, often it is slow as molasses and just an exercise in frustration to try and use it.

The three days from Orisson to Roncesvalles to Zubiri to Pamplona did my feet in. The osteopath I saw in St. Jean Pied de Port, before starting over the Pyrenees, said not to lace my boots up around my ankles, because my ankles needed to flex more, but that meant that I couldn’t lock my heels into the back of my boots and my toes jammed into the front of my boots—even though the boots are plenty big—down the mountain to Roncesvalles, and then on a very long, steep, tricky, rocky descent to Zubiri. The walk the next day to Pamplona was one of the hardest days for me, just because my feet were so sore. So, another rest day with two nights in Pamplona. Which is not a bad place to spend two days. My feet felt like they should be black and blue. I bought new shoes, which I will alternate with the boots, or just keep wearing if my feet feel better in them. Today they are less sore. But I decided I needed to make a big jump ahead. So my friend I’ve been walking with on and off for the last month, who has also had a lot of foot trouble, and I took a Bla Bla Car (hitchhiking, essentially, but you arrange for it online and pay something towards gas) from Pamplona to Burgos late this afternoon. The guys we got a ride with could not have been nicer. They were on their way home from five days in the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela (we joked that we could just ride all the way with them), and they drove us right to our Hostal in Burgos. They had both spent time in university in Edinburgh so spoke English very well.

I loved Pamplona, and I love Burgos even more. I am spending two nights here, and may spend a third because it is so beautiful and it seems like there is a lot to see. Since we didn’t arrive until evening we only saw the cathedral from outside, but it is first on my agenda after breakfast tomorrow. I will also spend some time here figuring out where I go from here. Between Burgos and Leon lies the Meseta—mostly flat, treeless, land that pilgrims have a love/hate relationship with. Some skip it all together, finding it tedious and boring. Some love it because of the mental challenge of crossing it, some find it leads to lots of introspection and prayer. Because there’s not much else to do or look at. I will either skip it all together (my least favorite days in France were the ones that were through flat farm land), or walk a day or two then catch a bus to Leon. If I skip it all together, I’ll probably take a train to Leon, then hope to walk the rest of the way to Santiago.

Pamplona was a wonderfully alive city. I could not believe the street scene in the historic center Friday night. The streets were absolutely full of people sitting outside the bars and restaurants, not just at tables, but on the street itself, drinking, talking and laughing. The sound was a roar. We had our own wonderful party going on inside a restaurant. It was a farewell dinner with the group that had formed since Orisson in the Pyrenees. Pilgrims have talked about how you form “family groups” on the way. I did not really experience that on the Chemin in France, but it happened the very first night of the Camino at the refuge in Orisson in the Pyrenees. I made fast friends with three German women I traveled with as far as Pamplona—we didn’t walk at the same pace, but usually met at lunch time and always had dinner together, shared a dorm room, and had breakfast. And there were others we kept pace with and became close to those first three days. In Pamplona I met up with my friend I’ve been traveling with on and off for a month and she joined the group as well. We had about 17 people around the table for a farewell dinner for those who were finishing that night and returning home. There were four men from Ireland, and you know what happens when the Irish start drinking. Yes, singing. Lots of loud, raucous singing. We drove some people out of the bar, I’m afraid, but it was one of the most fun nights I have had in a long time, and I feel like I have made some friends I will be in touch with from now on. My German friends kept walking, so I don’t know if we’ll meet again on the Camino, but What’s App groups are a wonderful thing for staying connected.

Goodness. It’ been a while since I did a blog post. Sorry. Combination of no wifi and no time! I’ll never adequately catch up on the last several days, but I’ll give you a glimpse.

I’m afraid a glimpse is all I got of my much anticipated crossing of the Pyrenees. Even though I split it into two days, hoping that the second day would be clearer, it was nothing but dense fog. The universe has a cruel sense of humor sometimes. The first day of the climb from St. Jean Pied de Port is an intense 8 km climb to Orisson. I was SO glad I did not do the crossing all in one day (23-24 km) as many people do. I am also grateful that I had already been walking 6 1/2 weeks and was not doing that climb on the very first day of my pilgrimage. That is what people do who just walk the Camino Frances. Their first day is one of the hardest of the entire Camino.

Another good reason for stopping in Orisson is because you get there early in the day—even though it is all uphill, it still doesn’t take that long to go 8 km—which means you get to hang out and talk to people all afternoon, then have dinner with them, and after several hours you have become fast friends. I now have three German friends I am traveling with and it is wonderful to have this little “Camino family”. I don’t know how long we will keep the same itinerary, but I already feel like I have made lifelong friends. I have a couple friends like that from the Chemin. I LOVED walking across France, but it is a very different experience, and unless you speak French you just don’t create the same kind of community.

The fog in the mountains did create a rather magical atmosphere. I’m trying to be positive here. Because the truth is I am really disappointed that I didn’t get to see the amazing vistas from the top that I have seen photos of. The sun came out for a total of about ten minutes. By that time I was well passed the open, treeless area with the really dramatic views at the top. And even if I had turned around and walked back those kilometers, I don’t think it would have made a difference, since the fog rolled right back in. See the photos below.

That’s all for now. Everyone is asleep and I should be, too.

Goodness. Day 42. I’ve been walking (and sometimes resting) for six weeks! Today started with this glorious view about a kilometer or two into the walk:

The cloud cover grew thicker and thicker through the day so I really couldn’t see the higher mountains. I found it disorienting. I kept feeling like I was walking north, because I couldn’t tell where the sun and mountains were. I kept telling myself “you are walking south and west” but without the sun and mountains I just couldn’t get my inner compass to cooperate. I think tomorrow will be clearer, so that should help. I hope that forecast holds—I really want to see the mountains as I get closer!

I am trying to wrap my head around the fact that I am finishing the Chemin tomorrow. May people walking this route cross over the mountains and finish in Roncevaux/Roncesvalles, but St. Jean Pied de Port, tomorrow’s destination marks the beginning of the Camino Frances across Spain—the most well-traveled route to Santiago. And it will be much more crowded with pilgrims from all over than anything I have yet experienced. In France, the majority of people walking are French. There are others from Belgium and Germany and Quebec, and very few from the US. There will be many fellow Americans once I get to St. Jean. Most folks from the USA don’t even know about the French routes, but many know about the Camino in Spain and that is what most Americans walk. It is going to be a very different vibe. I will no longer be staying in gites. I will no longer be eating fabulous French food. There will be many more people on the path. I’ve read many posts about the challenges of adjusting to the Camino after walking the Chemin. Many of the posts are from people who long to be back on the Chemin. I am just telling myself, “it will be different,” and trying hard not to pre-judge it. There are others who prefer the Camino—it is easier walking for one thing—crossing the Pyrenees is the most difficult part. While there are some climbs, and some tricky descents in Spain, my understanding is that what I have just done on the Chemin Le Puy is FAR more physically challenging than what I will encounter on the Camino Frances. And many people prefer having more people to walk with and dine with along the way. While I have crossed paths with the same people along parts of this route, it sounds like more “Camino families” form in Spain. I will take it as it comes!

Today was a very solitary walk—I should probably treasure it knowing what’s ahead! Since most people walk in one day what I am doing in two, they stayed about 4 km beyond where I did last night, in Ostabat, and walked at a faster pace to get to St. Jean Pied de Port (SJPDP) today. So apart from one camper who quickly passed and outpaced me this morning, I have been the only one on the path. Well, me and thousands of sheep and cows. You do not want to see, or smell, the bottom of my boots. Gite owners insist you leave your boots at the door for a very good reason. You cannot avoid stepping in it.

I mentioned Ostabat, Ostabat is an ancient, famous stopping place for pilgrims. My guide book says that in the Middle Ages Ostabat could accommodate 5000 pilgrims in its 20 inns. Ummm. Help me with the math here. That’s 250 pilgrims per inn, right? They must have been shoulder to shoulder and head to foot on the floors. And sleeping in the stables. I walked through Ostabat an hour or so after leaving this morning. And was grateful for the tiny epicerie/boulanger where I could buy the usual ham/cheese/butter on a baguette sandwich for lunch and a chocolatine (that’s southwestern France for pain au chocolat) for my late morning snack. I figure I am almost out of France, so I will enjoy the chocolatine and almond croissants while I’m here.

I’m staying tonight in a Chambres d’Hotes, like a B & B, but less expensive than most B & B’s. This one is just lovely, in an 18th century house. Below is my beautiful bedroom. It is a treat! The accommodations in Spain will be different—the albergues will be more communal and dorm-like than the gites in France. But I believe there are also Chambre d’Hotes type options if I need my own room from time to time. And most albergues do not provide wonderful home-cooked meals like the gites in France do. I think most pilgrims eat out or cook in the communal kitchen at the albergue. The restaurants in Spain have “pilgrim meals” where you usually have a choice of a couple of entrees, and appetizer, I think, and dessert. My understanding is they tend to get repetitive—chicken and fries—so many people order off the regular menu instead. The pilgrim’s meal is cheaper. Designed to be filling and affordable, I believe.

Today’s walk was glorious. Two big climbs—the first was on a typical narrow path through trees so wasn’t bad, the second—oh my—I was not expecting this today! A LONG uphill climb with no shade in the glaring sun—hot, hot, hot. But when you reached the top—oh my again. Pictures to follow.

Foot update—it is clearly pavement that aggravates the problem the worst. When I get to trails my feet do much better. Managed 14 km before stopping to take my boots and socks off and let them rest. In part, because there was simply nowhere to sit until then! We were warned that there would be absolutely nothing in terms of services on this stretch. So the gite last night had a small store where you could buy cheese, bread, fruit and a few other things you might want for the day. At 14 km there were some picnic benches in a small village so I joined all the others who were walking today and enjoyed my lunch there with my feet up. After lunch came the two climbs. Now I am at my gite, in a lovely old farmhouse, hoping to finish this before dinner starts at 6:30. There is a barely two month old kitten curled up beside me, and a five-month old curled up on my bed upstairs. Awww.

Here are photos from this glorious day. The Pyrenees are looming large now, but you may have to zoom in to see them through the clouds.

And here are photos of the long, long climb in the hot, hot sun.

But it was worth it when you got to the top.

That climb was good practice for what is to come in a few days when I head over the Pyrenees. Since I took three days off, and much of the walk lately has been flat, I’m glad for the two climbs today. Can’t lose my climbing legs before the Pyrenees.

A couple of interiors from tonight’s gite.

The good news is that my big heel blister is no longer painful, which is a huge relief. The less good news is that the painful, burning sensation at the base of my toes still kicks in after about 5 km. I took two breaks today to take off my boots and socks and put my feet up and that helped. I think a big part of it is the pavement walking and hiking boots combination. My current thinking is that when I get to St. Jean Pied de Port, get a second pair of good walking shoes, not boots, and trade off. Boots when I need them for off-pavement climbs and descents, walking shoes for pavement and flatter stretches.

It was a beautiful walk today. I was grateful for a good stretch of woods and shade and dirt to walk on.

I’m still here folks! I decided to stay three days in Navarenxx to see a doc about my feet and let them rest. He gave me a very strong anti-inflammatory, said my feet looked amazing for having walked 500-600 km, and did not tell me to stop walking. He also said what I was putting on my heel blister was the best thing to use. Lesson: I will NOT try walking without the liner socks again! I am staying in a wonderful gite with my own room. The hosts are so welcoming and the meals delicious. Gite Le Cri de Girafe, if you are planing your trip.

I plan to start walking again tomorrow, hope to be in St. Jean Pied de Port on Sunday, and hope my feet and the weather allow me to start across the Pyrenees on Tuesday. Prayers, thoughts, healing energy for feet are all welcome!

Guard tower I guess?

The days and places are blurring together. We are in a part of the walk with few villages and towns, and lots and lots of farmland. The big WOW yesterday was when I realized that all of a sudden I could see the Pyrenees!!

I am having a lot of foot trouble which is very frustrating having come this far. The boots I bought a week or so ago solved some problems, but I think they are causing different ones. And I decided to try walking without my liner toe socks for the last few km yesterday, thinking they might be the problem, and promptly got my first bad blister. I hate to be this close to the Pyrenees and not be able to finish this part of the walk!! I’m taking the transport van again tomorrow for another rest day, then will try walking again the day after. If I’m still having trouble, I’ll find the next town big enough for a podiatrist. It is definitely a lesson in learning one’s limits. But disappointing.