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Scotland Presbyterian Heritage Pilgrimage, Days 3-5, 15-17 July

July 17, 2024
From the ferry to the Isle of Mull

My intentions of writing every night are not panning out! Either I’m just too tired at the end of the day, or I have work to do (like preparing for my ‘bus lecture’ about Celtic Christianity/Spirituality today). The last three days have been very full and involved a lot of travel—our last day in Edinburgh on Monday, Stirling on Tuesday, and today we traveled across Scotland to Oban, then by ferry to the Isle of Mull, then by coach to Tobermory at the northwestern tip of Mull.

On Monday we started the day by going to the National Museum of Scotland (which is free, SUCH a deal!) to look specifically at the Reformation exhibits. We also went up to the roof terrace space which has a spectacular view of the skyline of Edinburgh.

Then it was on to Greyfriars Kirk for an organ recital by Andrew, then a talk on church music during the Reformation (mostly singing unaccompanied Psalms in Scotland). It was a rich morning, and it is always wonderful to hear Andrew play, especially when I’m not having to think about what I’m doing in worship that morning! After the organ recital, talk, and a brief worship service we took a quick stroll through the church yard to see the grave stones that inspired the names of many of the characters in the Harry Potter series—McGonagall and Thomas Riddell in particular.

Later that afternoon I took two of our group to visit my friend James’ weaving studio. We learned about his and his students’ work, the various kinds of looms he uses, yarns and got to see some works in progress as well as his beautiful finished pieces—and we enjoyed some retail therapy. It you’d like to see James’ work, please check out his website: https://www.pickone.co.uk/

On Tuesday we boarded the bus and drove to Stirling, stopping to see the Kelpies on the way. I’ll let the photos of them speak for themselves, and I’ll let you google what a kelpie is!

Tuesday was pretty much a straight tourist day—visiting the castle and the Wallace monument. I was quite proud of myself for walking up the very steep hill to the monument. But I wasn’t about to climb the narrow, spiral, stone stairs to get to the crown of the monument itself—-I do not do those! The views from the base were amazing.

Today we got back on the bus and drove to Oban through the Trossachs. I managed to give my bus lecture on the Celtic church and Celtic spirituality even with very windy roads—well, I took a break through the windiest bits. Once in Oban we had the most scrumptious fish and chips for lunch and visited the Oban Distillery. The tour was wonderful, including the three whiskeys we tasted. And there are several bottles coming home in people’s bags—we are good Presbyterians after all.

Best of all perhaps is that I got to see my dear friend Louise from Iona days! She lives in Mull and was able to take a mid-day break and come join me for lunch for a half-hour. Much too short but far better than no visit at all!

Then we took the ferry to Mull—which is such an awe-inspiring journey, the scenery is breathtaking. The ride across Mull to Tobermory is an experience, especially on a big coach—most of the way is single-track road with passing places, and I am most impressed with our driver’s ability as he maneuvered the bus up the steep, narrow roads to our hotel, Western Isles Hotel, and managed to get the bus turned around in a VERY small parking area.

It is SO beautiful here. Once again I have a garret room—top floor on the end with windows overlooking Tobermory harbor. Had time for a walk around Tobermory before dinner—which includes descending 106 steps to get from the hotel to the Main Street—then climbing back up again. And since my room is on the fourth floor of this old inn with no lift, I have lots of climbing to do over the next two days!

We closed the evening with an evening prayer service and now it’s early (relatively) to bed because we have to take the coach around Mull to catch the ferry to Iona in the morning.

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